Where to stay

The Royal Mile, the Castle and the closes in between. Atmospheric and central, but busy, steep and noisy late at night.

Georgian terraces, George Street and Princes Street. Flat by Edinburgh standards, close to Waverley and the tram, and good for first-timers.

Elegant crescents near Haymarket station and the airport tram. Calm streets and easy walking to the Castle and Dean Village.

A village feel on the Water of Leith, with cafés, independent shops and a Sunday market. Ten to fifteen minutes’ walk downhill from the centre.

Student streets near the University, the Meadows and the Central Mosque, with the city’s best spread of halal food. Good value.

The old port, now a lively waterfront of seafood restaurants and new flats, linked to the centre by tram.