An early walk around Hoan Kiem Lake and Ngoc Son Temple, the guild streets after breakfast, and the water puppets in the evening.
Day 2
Dynasties & scholars
The Temple of Literature at opening time, the Imperial Citadel after lunch, and sunset at Tran Quoc Pagoda on West Lake.
Day 3
French Quarter & museums
Hoa Lo Prison, the Women’s Museum and the National Museum of Vietnamese History, then the Opera House lit up at night.
Day 4
The bay
Leave early for Ha Long or Lan Ha Bay; better still, stay one night on a cruise and return on Day 5.
Day 5+
Go deeper
Ninh Binh’s karst rivers, Bat Trang’s potters, or a slow day at the Museum of Ethnology and West Lake.
Honest thought: Hanoi’s traffic is intense and its pavements are full of parked motorbikes and stalls. Plan one area per half-day, cross the road at a steady walking pace and use ride-hailing for longer distances.