Where to stay

Medieval lanes, the market squares and the Jewish Quarter on your doorstep. Atmospheric but busy and pricier.

Baroque palaces and gas-lamp streets beneath the Castle. Quiet and romantic in the evening; mind the cobbles and slopes with a pram.

Wenceslas Square and the streets around it: central, good transport and a wide choice of hotels and restaurants.

Leafy residential streets of 1900s apartment blocks, with cafés, parks and two Christmas markets. Ten minutes by metro to the centre.

A rebuilt riverside district of converted factories, good restaurants and modern apartments; calm and well connected.

Above the river by the big park, near the National Gallery’s Trade Fair Palace. Good for families and design lovers.

The Castle district: very quiet after dark and beautiful at dawn, but uphill from everything.