South Korea · September

Seoul

Palaces, hanok alleys and a city that never stops eating.

Early autumn brings clearer skies and cooler evenings. Chuseok, the harvest holiday, usually falls in September or early October. Many family-run places close for a few days, but palaces stay busy.

Currency

Korean won (KRW)

Language

Korean

Airport

Incheon (ICN), AREX rail to centre

Getting around

Subway and buses, T-money card

Contents

01

4 places

Neighbourhoods

Seoul is huge. Group your days by area.

01

Neighbourhood · Jongno

Traditional hanok houses on sloping lanes between two palaces. People live here, so keep your voice down.

02

Neighbourhood · Jongno

Narrow hanok alleys turned into cafés, bakeries and small shops.

03

Neighbourhood · East, Seongdong

Old factories and warehouses turned into concept stores, galleries and coffee roasters.

04

Neighbourhood · Yongsan

Design shops, galleries and some of the city’s best restaurants, near Leeum.

02

4 places

See

Royal palaces, city views and a restored stream through downtown.

01

Palace · Jongno

The main royal palace of the Joseon dynasty. Catch the guard-changing ceremony at the gate.

02

Palace · Jongno

A UNESCO-listed palace that follows the land. The Secret Garden can only be visited on a guided tour.

03

Viewpoint · Namsan

Hike or take the cable car up Namsan for the full sweep of the city.

04

Urban walk · Downtown

A restored stream running below street level for several kilometres. A cool walk on a warm evening.

03

3 places

Eat

Markets, noodles and barbecue. Eating out is easy, even alone.

01

Gwangjang Market

Market · Jongno

One of Seoul’s oldest markets. Try bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes) and mayak gimbap at the stalls.

02

A local neighbourhood market with cheap snacks, close to the Han River parks.

03

Myeongdong Kyoja

Noodles · Myeongdong

A long-running kalguksu (knife-cut noodle) house with a short menu and fast turnover.

04

3 places

Architecture & Design

Seoul has some of the boldest contemporary buildings in Asia.

01

Dongdaemun Design Plaza

Architecture · Jung-gu

Zaha Hadid’s flowing, aluminium-clad landmark. Exhibitions inside, and open public space all around.

02

Leeum Museum of Art

Museum · Hannam

Three buildings by Mario Botta, Jean Nouvel and Rem Koolhaas, holding Korean and contemporary art.

03

Museum · Samcheong-dong

The national modern art museum, set between palace and hanok streets, with courtyards built in.

05

2 places

Day Trips

Out of the city for history or a view across the border.

01

Hwaseong Fortress

Day trip · Suwon

An 18th-century fortress wall you can walk almost all the way around. UNESCO-listed.

02

Day trip · North of Seoul

Only reachable on an organised tour. Bring your passport.

06

Notes

Practical

Small things that make the trip easier.

01

Naver Map and KakaoMap work far better than Google Maps here.

02

Get a T-money card at any convenience store. It works on the subway, buses and in taxis.

03

Many palaces close one day a week, and the closing days differ. Check before you plan the day.

04

Check the Chuseok dates for your year. Transport is very busy around the holiday.

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