Where to stay

Boutique hotels and guesthouses among the baths, churches and the mosque. Atmospheric and walkable, with steep lanes and few lifts.

Grand 19th-century houses with painted entrance halls, below the Kartlis Deda statue; central and characterful.

Larger hotels on and around the main avenue, close to museums, the metro and the funicular. Avoid rooms near Parliament if you want quiet nights.

A leafy residential district of cafés and old houses between Rustaveli and Vake; calm and good value.

A smart, green district near Vake Park and the Turtle Lake cable car, with modern apartments for families.

Across the river around Aghmashenebeli Avenue and Fabrika; restored façades, the metro and lively cafés.

The hill below Holy Trinity Cathedral, with views back over the river and the old town; the metro is close.