Art in Istanbul

Renzo Piano’s 2023 waterfront museum, with Turkish modern art and Bosphorus views from the terrace.

Orientalist paintings, including Osman Hamdi Bey’s Tortoise Trainer, plus strong temporary shows.

Contemporary art across a Grimshaw-designed building in Dolapdere, with a good bookshop.

The former Ottoman Bank, now a free research library and exhibition space.

Calligraphy, painting and big touring exhibitions in a Bosphorus villa at Emirgan.

Orhan Pamuk’s museum of a novel, in a red house in Çukurcuma; small and absorbing.