ما وراء سراييفو

The rebuilt Stari Most arches over the green Neretva, with Ottoman houses such as Kajtaz House in the lanes around it.

A walled Ottoman village climbing a hillside above the Neretva, with a mosque, tower and stone houses.

A white dervish lodge at the foot of a cliff, where the Buna river rises turquoise from a cave.

A wide horseshoe of cascades in a green pool. Swimming season is over by October; come for the falls and the autumn colour.

A royal medieval town with a waterfall tumbling right below its walls, and old watermills on the lakes nearby.

The old Ottoman capital of Bosnia, with a fortress, the Many-Coloured Mosque and the Plava Voda springs.

A river town on the Neretva with an Ottoman stone bridge and a woodcarving tradition.

Bosnia’s highest village, with stone houses on the edge of the Rakitnica canyon. The last part of the road is gravel; go with a local driver.