Where to stay

Boutique hotels and apartments inside the walls. Atmospheric and quiet at night; cars are limited, so check how your luggage gets in.

The pedestrian heart of the modern centre, outside the Old City gates. Shops, restaurants and the metro on your doorstep.

Big hotels between the Old City and the Caspian. Sea views, a flat promenade for pushchairs and the Carpet Museum nearby.

The hilltop above the bay, home to the Fairmont. The best night views; the funicular takes you down to the Boulevard.

A more local district north-west of the centre, near Taza Pir Mosque. Calmer and often better value.