Where to stay

Around Ulu Camii and the bazaars: walk to the great mosques, markets and İskender. The easiest base for a city-first trip.

The leafy hillside spa quarter, with thermal hotels and Ottoman baths. Calm, a little out of the centre, ideal for winter.

East of the centre near the Green Mosque, Emir Sultan and the gondola station; handy for early starts up Uludağ.

The modern side of the city, with newer hotels, malls and wide roads. Practical with a car, less atmospheric.

Ski hotels at the top of the gondola, at about 1,870 m, usually sold with full board and lift passes. Wake up on the snow.

A seaside town on the Sea of Marmara where the sea bus from Istanbul arrives; good for a night on the way in or out.