Hobby trips

A one-room, family-run tea house on cobbled Kovači above Baščaršija, opened in 1997. Order Bosnian coffee with Turkish delight, or a warm salep as the evenings cool. Cash is preferred.

Sarajevo’s first speciality coffee shop, roasting its own beans and serving Bosnian coffee alongside espresso and pour-over. A good contrast to the old-town coffee houses nearby.

Built in 1531 for the Ottoman governor of Bosnia, with a courtyard fountain, his domed tomb and a clock tower beside it. Visitors pay a small fee outside prayer times; modest dress, and women cover their hair.

Set in the classrooms of the Kuršumli madrasa he founded, telling the story of the governor, his endowments and Sarajevo’s Islamic scholarship. At Sarači 33, across from the mosque; check hours before you go.

Sarajevo’s first mosque, dedicated to Sultan Süleyman and rebuilt in the 1560s, with a quiet cemetery and the seat of the Islamic Community nearby. Free; visit outside prayer times.