05

Eat Tbilisi

Cheese breads, walnut sauces and the autumn harvest

Georgian classics to look for

Khachapuri
The national cheese bread: boat-shaped Ajarian with egg and butter, round Imeretian with squeaky cheese, or flaky Meskhetian.
Khinkali
Pleated dumplings full of broth, eaten by hand; ask for the beef, mushroom or cheese versions.
Pkhali & aubergine with walnuts
Vegetable and herb pastes bound with walnuts, and rolled aubergine with walnut paste: the backbone of any Georgian table.
Churchkhela
Strings of walnuts dipped in thickened grape juice and dried; at their freshest after the harvest.

Where to eat

Old town lunch
The lanes around the baths and Sioni Street are full of small Georgian restaurants; choose one with a clear menu and ask about meat before ordering.
Halal kitchens
Turkish and Iranian restaurants are scattered around the centre; ask your hotel for the nearest and confirm halal status with the staff.

Eat more

Ajarian khachapuri
Imeretian khachapuri
Lamb mtsvadi
Beef khinkali
Pkhali
Aubergine with walnuts
Lobio beans
Churchkhela
Fresh grape juice

The October plate

A harvest table
Order khachapuri, pkhali and grilled lamb to share, then finish with fresh churchkhela and black tea. Grapes fill the market stalls this month.
Muslim traveller note: Georgian restaurants serve wine and often pork. Choose lamb, veal or chicken dishes and the many vegetarian plates, or head to a Turkish or Iranian kitchen for halal meat.
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