Where to stay

The central square and its streets, with hotels, restaurants and the bazaar on foot. The easiest base without a car.

Larger hotels along the coast road east of the centre, with sea views and quick airport access; taxis into town.

Quieter streets on the hill above the city, close to the viewpoint tea gardens. Steep, so best with a car.

Wooden hotels and bungalows around the lake and up the slopes. Book a lake-view room and stay at least one night to see the morning mist.

A seaside town just west of Trabzon, known for köfte and a few historic mansions. Calmer evenings, a short drive to the city.

Wooden chalets on a high plateau in Rize, by a hot spring. Lovely in early October; many places close as the season ends, so book direct and confirm.