Where to stay

Boutique hotels in old merchant houses, rooftop views and everything within walking distance. Best for two or three nights.

A former dhow-building and fishing village at the northern tip, now lined with hotels. Lively, with sunsets over the sea.

Just south of Nungwi on the west coast, facing the islands of Tumbatu. Quieter beach hotels and calm sunsets.

A south-east village on a wide, shallow lagoon sheltered by a reef. Kitesurfing hub; families like the calm water at low tide.

A string of villages south of Paje, with seaweed farming in the lagoon and simpler, quieter places to stay.

A peninsula on the east coast with resort hotels and The Rock restaurant offshore.