Coffee in Budapest

On Vörösmarty tér since 1858 and made famous by Swiss confectioner Emil Gerbeaud, with chandeliers, gilded stucco and the house zserbó cake. In December it overlooks the square’s Christmas market.

Opened in 1894, the gilded café where Ferenc Molnár wrote The Paul Street Boys, now part of a hotel. It is one of the city’s most popular sights, so go early to avoid the longest wait.

Founded in 1887 and once a retreat for the editors of the literary journal Nyugat, with writers’ portraits on the wooden walls and free newspapers by the door.

A tiny confectioner near Buda Castle, open since 1827, with carved wood and a golden chandelier. Space is limited, so expect to wait for a table; the Dobos torte is the classic order.