Eat Bursa

The family restaurant of İskender Efendi, who created the dish in Bursa; his descendants still run it. Lamb döner over bread with tomato sauce and yoghurt, and the hot butter poured at the table.

Tea gardens fill the courtyard of the silk han; order tea and a simit and watch the market around you.

The public kitchen of the Muradiye complex now works as a restaurant, a rare chance to eat inside a 15th-century Ottoman foundation.

Tea and village food among old wooden houses; go hungry and choose a simple family-run place with a stove.

Most mountain meals are in the ski hotels, usually on full board. Hot soup, köfte and tea after the slopes.