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Portugal · September

Lisbon

Seven hills, tiled façades and the Atlantic light.
September is one of the best months for Lisbon: the summer crowds thin out, the sea is at its warmest and evenings stay long. Plan for hills, cobbles and a lot of walking.
Currency
Euro (EUR)
Language
Portuguese
Airport
Humberto Delgado (LIS), metro to centre
Getting around
Metro, trams, Viva Viagem card
Contents
01
4 places

Neighbourhoods

Each area has its own character. Base yourself near a metro line to save your legs.
01
Alfama
Neighbourhood · East of Baixa
The oldest quarter: a maze of stairways, laundry lines and small squares below the castle.
02
Chiado & Bairro Alto
Neighbourhood · Centre
Bookshops, historic cafés and theatres by day. Bairro Alto gets loud late at night.
03
Príncipe Real
Neighbourhood · North of Bairro Alto
Leafy garden square, concept stores and restored palacetes. Calm and good for families.
04
Belém
Neighbourhood · West, on the river
Monuments, museums and wide riverside promenades. Plan a full half day.
02
4 places

See

The landmarks worth the queue, and the quieter ones that often aren’t queued at all.
01
Jerónimos Monastery
Monument · Belém
A UNESCO-listed Manueline masterpiece. The cloister is the highlight.
02
National Tile Museum
Museum · Xabregas
Five centuries of azulejos in a former convent, including a long tiled panorama of pre-earthquake Lisbon.
03
Gulbenkian Museum & Garden
Museum · Avenidas Novas
A world-class collection in a landmark modernist building, set in one of the city’s best gardens.
04
Miradouro da Senhora do Monte
Viewpoint · Graça
The highest viewpoint in the centre, with the castle and river in one frame.
03
4 places

Eat

Seafood, grilled fish and pastry. Lunch is often the better-value meal.
01
Pastéis de Belém
Bakery · Belém
The original custard tart, made here since 1837. Eat them warm, with cinnamon.
02
Manteigaria
Bakery · Chiado
A tiny counter dedicated to pastel de nata, baked through the day.
03
Time Out Market
Food hall · Cais do Sodré
Inside the Mercado da Ribeira. Many of the city’s chefs are under one roof. Good for groups with different tastes.
04
Ramiro
Seafood · Intendente
A classic shellfish house: garlic prawns, clams and crab, ordered by weight.
04
3 places

Architecture & Design

From Manueline stone to contemporary river-front buildings.
01
MAAT
Museum · Belém
A curving, tile-clad museum by AL_A on the riverbank. You can walk over its roof.
02
Portugal Pavilion
Architecture · Parque das Nações
Álvaro Siza’s Expo ’98 pavilion with its famous sagging concrete canopy.
03
LX Factory
Creative hub · Alcântara
A converted industrial complex with studios, shops and a much-photographed bookshop.
05
2 places

Day Trips

Easy by train. Leave early and come back for dinner.
01
Sintra
Day trip · ~40 min by train from Rossio
Palaces and gardens in misty hills. Pick two sites at most. The hills are steep.
02
Cascais
Day trip · Train from Cais do Sodré
Seaside town with beaches and a coastal path. The train ride hugs the river.
06
Notes

Practical

Small things that make the trip easier.
01
Wear shoes with grip. The limestone pavements are slippery, even when dry.
02
Tram 28 is scenic but crowded. Ride it early, or walk the route instead.
03
Many restaurants put bread and olives on the table. They are not free. Send them back if you don’t want them.
04
Most museums close on Mondays.
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