05

Eat Trabzon

Hamsi, kuymak, köfte and pide from the wood oven

Eat more

Kuymak (mıhlama)
Akçaabat köfte
Hamsi tava
Hamsili pilav
Trabzon pide
Kara lahana sarma
Laz böreği
Vakfıkebir bread
Hamsiköy sütlaç
Rize tea

The October plate

Hamsi, the first of the season
Black Sea anchovies return as the fishing season opens in September and get better as the water cools. Have them fried in a pan with cornbread, or baked into hamsili pilav.
Muslim traveller note: meat in local restaurants is halal as standard, and most köfte, pide and pilaf houses do not serve alcohol. Seafront and hotel restaurants may; ask before you sit down.
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City guides, month by month. Every place checked, with halal food and prayer notes in every guide.
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